Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Simplicty 1941: Short sleeve shirt

I'm on a bit of a shirt sewing thing at the moment - I sewed one for my son last night (still to be blogged) and so I thought I'd finish this one off - its been sitting in a drawer half finished for a couple of months. I inserted a sleeve realised how much I didn't like the pleated sleeve heads and stuck it aside.
Its version B of S1941, one of the amazing fit patterns. Is it just me or do they never fit right plus I can never work out which size to start with. So I traced off a B cup and did my normal 1.5" FBA instead on a sz20. I deepened the back darts by 1/2" and extended them, even after pinning them while on me (or trying to at least) I still have a lot of fabric puddling in my lower back so the next version I want to try eliminating the back darts and sewing a channel and threading through elastic - I saw it on a RTW shirt and it worked really well.
Its ended up a bit shapeless, looks fine with the belt but feels quite loose without, again I think adding an elasticated back next time will help that and I might end up doing that to this shirt as well.

The sleeves come with quite deep pleats, I found them to be way too big and made the sleeve head puff up a LOT.....I ended up cutting nearly 2" off the top of the sleeve cap to try and get them to sit smoother. For some reason I had sewed and serged the side seam allowances before I left it so I couldn't put them in flat without unpicking a lot, it would be a lot easier to do them flat and would turn out a lot nicer and smoother.

I used a stretch poplin, it doesn't seem to stay pressed very well though, and inside I just serged the seam allowances, nothing fancy!

This version was really turned into a bit of a practise go, gave me a good feel for the pattern and what to change next time and I've already picked out a really nice soft plaid for next time.

1 comment:

  1. I'm with you on the dislike of puffy sleeves - seems little girl-ish. Very nice blouse, good color for you.

    Occasionally for the lower back puddling, even on RTW, I do a down n' dirty elastic rather than a casing. I just take a piece of narrow elastic, sew it to the inside where I want it gathered, stretching the elastic while I sew. You don't see the stitching from the outside because it is gathered up. Not couture, but works like a charm!