I'm looking a bit smug in these pics because even though this dress was a beast to fit it is my favourite self made dress of all time! I've worn it all day and I finally get why some women say that a dress is more comfortable than jeans!
So lots of adjustments though;
First muslin I used a knit yoke in a sz 12 on a sz18 bodice/dress. I got the idea from this dress of Patty the Snug Bug's. I dropped the bust darts and moved them and used a tshirt type knit and lowered the neckline.
Second muslin I used a double knit which didn't stretch as much as the tshirt knit and felt awful to wear.
Third muslin I used a too thin knit which stretched downwards too much and I remembered why I never use darts, I can never get them to shape properly under the bust and get left with excess fabric. This version I also used the skirt from S2176, which I decided didn't look as nice as the patterns straighter skirt.
The final version was just right, lol. The front princess seam bodice pieces are from Colette Eclair, with the yoke in a tshirt knit sz 12 and the rest of the dress in pretty much a straight sz 18. The neckline has been lowered and widened and the sleeves made longer and straighter around the hem. I didn't use facings instead finished the neck and sleeves like a tshirt bands. The skirt I cut with extra wide fitting seams but didn't end up needing the extra at all.
A note on the pockets - they are inset into a slash in the skirt and the instructions have you complete them and then finish the seams, which is nearly impossible. If you cut the slash, sew on the pockets, and serge the slash now, its a lot neater finish and so much easier! (Hope that makes sense, I forgot to take pics while I was doing it)
Because I used a stretch sateen and a knit I got away without a zipper. The fits a little looser than I normally make dresses but this way I can belt it if I want it tighter and unbelted, its perfect size for sitting down all day at work.
Needless to say, I will be making this again!